Impressions of Israel

                                                         

Hello Everyone,

Lady M here. She is getting used to her new age of soixante-neuf-et-deux. It is a painful process and one of disbelief. How did she arrive at this point of her life? Only five minutes ago she became a pensioner and five minutes before that she was experiencing her first day at school. Moments make memories. This week she is sharing with you another of her scribing's from her Writing Course in the eighties. This one was an article about her experiences in Israel. Please be aware that these visits were made in 1975, 1983 and 1984. Some things may not be the same today. 

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                  Impressions of Israel 

The Promised Land! The land flowing with milk and honey! The place where there was a stable in Bethlehem and a ‘green hill without a city wall’. I was brought up in a small rural and Christian community. The church was the focal point for all activities and religion played an important part in my life. The Holy Land was, for me, something to dream about and a place which I promised myself I would visit one day. 

That ambition was fulfilled in the summer of 1975 when I set foot on Israel’s soil for the first time. Like most pilgrims, on their first visit, I didn’t know what to expect but I had biblical ideas at the back of my mind and had not really allowed for the fact that the 20th century had invaded the Middle East just like everywhere else. Despite this the beauty, charm, and surprisingly enough peaceful atmosphere made me fall in love with this country and gave me a yearning to go back. Since then I’ve returned twice and on both occasions I’ve taken other pilgrims with me. I always leave with sadness and the words ‘I will be back’. 

Those who I have taken with me, or pilgrims, have all been dubious, either because they had heard reports of fighting on the news or were anxious about disappointment. Would their preconceived ideas be shattered and ruined? However, once they had tasted the magic of the Holy Land for themselves all doubts and apprehensions were forgotten. It is the land of three monotheistic religions: Christianity, Judaism, and Islam. How can a place exist with three beliefs? Can they work in harmony? Surprisingly enough there is tremendous respect and tolerance for each other’s religions. The Muslim quarters are closed on Fridays and Muslims swarm to the Temple Mount in Jerusalem for prayer. From Friday evening to Saturday evening the Jewish families are celebrating the sabbath and then on the Sunday it’s the Christian day of rest. 

Probably the most exciting part for any pilgrim is the assent to Jerusalem from Tel Aviv. The Tourist Board have even recognised the significance for pilgrims and issue an ‘Attestation of Pilgrimage’ certificate which may be kept as a lasting reminder. What does one encounter in Jerusalem? The new part with the Knesset, skyscraper buildings and departmental stores could be London or any other city. The charm lies in the Old City which is totally different. Illuminated in the evening it shines out for the rest of the world to see. In daylight, it’s cobbled streets and bazaars give the feeling of what it would have been like 2000 years ago. 

After the climatic change the next difference any tourist notices is the daylight hours. It helps if you are an early riser as dawn breaks about 4 am. Sunset is between 5 and 6 pm all year round. Consequently, work begins early in the morning. There is a rest period in the afternoon and life begins again in the early evening. On my first trip I stayed at the hotel next to the bus station in Jerusalem and was awakened by the first bus leaving every morning at 5 am. The driver announced by tooting the horn for five minutes that he was ready to leave. Who could sleep after that? 

And who would want to miss a moment of Jerusalem? One of the most beautiful sites is the panorama of the city seen from the Mount of Olives looking across at the Kidron Valley. Here can be seen a contrast of greenery amongst the white clearly identified gravestones and the old city wall with the closed golden gate. This is the only gate that is closed. According to Jewish belief it will not be opened until Judgement Day when Jesus will enter Jerusalem by that particular gate. Standing out clearly in the Old City is the gold dome of the Omar Mosque. The Mosque built on the site of the second temple and situated close to the Western Wall, the most holy shrine for the Jews. It is only yards away from the Via Delarosa (The Way of the Cross) which the Franciscan Fathers walk each Friday at 3 pm following, they believe, in the footsteps of Christ. In this small area there is a supreme example of tolerance and respect for individual faith. Three religions all worshipping according to their own belief and so close to each other. 

Two other sites which make a remarkable impression on the visitor are the Garden Tomb and The Garden of Gethsemane. These places have retained their images as gardens. They are peaceful and quiet, completely unchanged by commercialism unlike Bethlehem. If anyone still has the naïve idea of a stable, a shock awaits them when entering a very ornate grotto in the Church of Nativity in the centre of a thriving market town and opposite King David’s supermarket.

An experience not to be missed is to wander and bargain in the bazaar of the Old City watching the laden donkeys pass by and the people in traditional Eastern Dress. Like any market most household items can be acquired and one of my party even bought an umbrella although she never actually used it. Leaving Jerusalem and moving south one sees different scenery that of desert and wilderness surrounding the Dead Sea. This is in stark contrast to the north of the area which has beautiful green hills, valleys and churches on all the holy spots. But wherever one goes north or south the visitor cannot miss the soldiers. The army are always alert ready for any trouble from their ‘Kissing Cousins.”

I have frequently been asked to summarise the Holy Land, and I found the best way is as a diamond with many enchanting facets. If the pilgrim having made the ascent to Jerusalem spends a few days on the coast before returning another side will be clear. Israel’s coastal resorts with pavement cafes and restaurants is like any Continental resort with a completely different flavour from the rest of the land.

Each visit has been a new experience and education for me and deepened my own faith. I’ve taken part in services in the Anglican Cathedral and also been present at Jewish Synagogue services and Bar mitzvahs. I’ve heard and watched the Muslims called the prayer. Israel is a land steeped in history and conflicts but it is magical and a land of 'milk and honey'.

  Until next week, stay safe, my friends.

Lady M xxxx

 If faith was lacking then it can certainly be witnessed today in this land of “milk and honey”.